Türkiye lies on Anatolia, a peninsula which since ancient times has been thought of as a bridge between East and West. With its diversity of landscapes and a rich cultural heritage, Türkiye is the perfect place for a road trip. Soaring mountains, exquisite beaches, and history, art and architecture are packed into each region. You could spend months here without seeing it all. We landed in Istanbul, drove around the country, and finished where we began.
We went to Ankara as a base for visiting Hittite ruins in Hattusa (see my article on this ancient civilization in an earlier post). Ankara was a bit too hectic for me, and our time might have been better spent in other parts of Turkey.
Our historic hotel, the Divan Cukurhan however, was a beautiful property right across from the Old Town (see A Room with a View for a description). The sites of the out of town ruins were well worth the drive!
Our next stop was Göreme, in the Cappadocia region in the heart of Turkey.
Cappadocia is a geological moonscape in the center of Anatolia. It’s honeycombed hills and soaring boulders rank with Earth’s most striking natural formations. One of the Star Wars movies was filmed in Cappadocia to exploit the unique terrain. Among the unique features are “fairy chimneys,
large conelike structures created by the erosion of soft volcanic ash and rock. Ancient cultures dug into them to create lodgings, castles, and vast underground complexes. Subterranean cities like Kaymakli and Derinkuyu were used as hiding places by early Christians.
Cappadocia’s role in early Christianity comes to life at the Göreme Open Air Museum and in the cave churches dispersed throughout the neighboring valleys. Göreme is the gateway to the Göreme National Park where many of these churches rest. It is a vast UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Weather permitting—particularly wind permitting—take a hot-air balloon ride over Cappadocia. It will be an unforgettable experience. One of the better companies is Turquaz Balloons.
We stayed in Aza Cave (see my article about Turkish stays in a room with a view). It is surrounded by fairy chimneys, and in the mornings the balloons were low in the sky above us! It is near some fine Turkish restaurants. One of them is in the Aza Cave itself, with our room came a delicious complimentary breakfast with local appetizers and egg dishes with one of the most varied and elaborate breakfast choices we have ever seen.
Easy drives from Göreme are rural Turkish villages, such as Güzelyurt. In times past, historic enemies lived there together in peace. It is full of ancient cliffside churches. On the 35-mile drive we saw a lot of harvesting of pumpkins and rutabagas.
We went from Göreme to Antalya. Enroute, we stopped in Konya to see the tomb of Rumi, a 13th Century poet, scholar, mystic and a major advocate of Sufi Mysticism. His tomb is beautiful and often crowded with devotees and visitors. Some of his poetic verses were quite romantic descriptions of love: “You are the Essence of the Essence, The intoxication of Love. I long to sing Your Praises but stand mute with the agony of wishing in my heart!” Konya is also one of the best places to attend Sufi Whirling Dervish dances a Sufi order Rumi founded.
We drove on to Antalya – a stunning seaside town, part of the “Turkish Riveria.” Much of the city is modern, and bustling, and the Old Town is full of outstanding Ottoman architecture and is quite intriguing. Hadrian’s Gate, a Roman ruin, stands only a short walk from where we stayed (see my article about Turkish stays in A Room with a View—a great place to stay, with a wonderful host).
From Antalya’s Old Town, we took daytrips to some appealing natural wonders (the Manavgat Waterfall just outside the village of Side) and to Lycian, Hittite, Greek and Roman ruins. The bronze age era Greek city of Perge and the Roman amphitheater of Aspendos are all worth a short daytrip while in Antalya. Throughout human history and before, the Eternal Flame on Mount Olympos -Chimaera or “Burning Rock” have been on fire with methane and hydrogen gases which emerge from the Earth’s interior. Getting a good view of the fires is a bit of a Hellish, steep hike but well worth the journey. Wear excellent walking shoes and be prepared for a rocky uphill climb. There is also Side, an ancient port village with classic Greco-Roman ruins.
The shortest drive from Antalya to Fethiye is through the interior of Anatolia, but the longer coastal drive, along the colorful, meandering Turquoise coast, is most memorable. On the coastal route, you’ll pass ancient relics, particularly the ruins in Phaselis and Patara. For lunch on the all-day drive, we stopped in the beautiful coastal town of Kas and ate at a seaside restaurant with a wonderful view of the beaches and water. Those that love more resort type adventures may want to stay here.
Fethiye is an ideal base for exploring a number of sites. Lycian tombs are carved into cliffs in the area. We drove to the Dalyan Delta for a boat ride to view the tombs carved into the hillside. The Myra Necropolis is a haunting tribute to the dead. Very close to Fethiye is a Greek ghost town, abandoned a century ago. So much to see in the region!
From where we parked to where we stayed in Fethiye is a very steep hike, but our host—bless him—not only insisted on carrying our luggage but also walked the long descent into town for some snacks. After a long day of driving, his assistance was not only appreciated, but necessary! See A Room with a View for where to stay in Fethiye available through AirBnB.
From Fethiye we drove to the small town of Sirence, only a short drive from the ancient Greek, later Roman city of Ephesus. We stayed in the hills above Sirence and enjoyed the picturesque Ottoman architecture of the village below. We were surrounded by acres of olive groves, in a totally peaceful cottage with a private infinity pool (see a room with a view with Turkish stays). Nearby on the weekend is a lively outdoor market which can only be called “knock-off city,” with quality copies of almost every name brand. You can find beautiful local fruits, vegetables, textiles there as well as clothing and household items. We blew our budget for goodies there.
We marveled at Ephesus – much had changed since our visit 12 years before. Much more excavated and large tourist crowds. The temple of Hadrian, the Great Theater, the Library of Celsus and the terraced houses are among the top sites in this UNESCO World Heritage Site. Nearby, on Mount Koressos is The House of the Virgin Mary, where Jesus’ mother is believed to have spent her last years. Exactly when she died is unknown. The site is often crowded with tourists and visiting pilgrims.
From Sirence, we drove through a geological marvel, Pamukale, which means “the white cotton castle.” The UNESCO World Heritage Site features natural bright, white, dripping terraces unlike anything we have ever seen.We spent the morning looking at the striking thermal pools and hiking through the Roman and Byzantine ruins of Hierapolis. We stayed in a small village a few hours north for the night so we would have a full day to drive on to Amasra, a village located on the edge of northern Turkey.
Amasra is a beautiful Black Sea town clinging to a small peninsula which juts out to the sea. The castle was founded in 339 and is the centerpiece of the quaint Old Town. Sunsets from here are truly amazing.
From Amasra, we visited the nearby Ottoman town of Safranbolu, another UNESCO World Heritage Site. Safranbolu was named for the highly prized saffron which was grown and traded here. For centuries, it played a role in the Caravan trade as a stop on the route between Europe and the Orient.
It is very popular with visitors interested in its Ottoman atmosphere and architecture. Many of the historic 17th Century wood-framed Ottoman homes have been restored. Some have been repurposed as boutique hotels, cafes and restaurants. Also in the area is Yenice Forest, a picturesque place to hike or picnic to experience colorful canyons and waterfalls.
Our last stop was in Istanbul, a most unique city that staddles the continents of Europe and Asia, separated by the Bosphorus Strait. This multilayered metropolis has experienced the rise and collapse of the Byzantine and Ottoman empires.
Its architecture is a fusion of the empires’ and European architecture.
We opted to stay in Beyoglu, a neighborhood known for its European architecture from the early 1900s. The area is full of contemporary culture, food and nightlife. We stayed directly across from the Galata tower and enjoyed outstanding views of the Bosporus from its upstairs terrace (see a Room with a View with Turkish stays).
In Istanbul, we had a wonderful guide, Mr. Önal of Istanbul Sightseeing Tours. He quickly and efficiently took us to all the highlights—the famous bazaar, the Blue Mosque, the Hagia Sophia, the Topkapi Palace, and enchanting Roman Cisterns beneath the city streets. He was very informative, even while driving the car through the very tricky Istanbul traffic. Thanks to him, we also went for photos to places with wonderful panoramic views of the city. All that in one day. That evening, we splurged on a private boat to cruise the Bosphorus through Viator Tours.
Not far from our rooms was the Galata bridge, which connects the two halves of Istanbul, as well as Europe and Asia. Many restaurants line the bridge’s lower level. While eating there, we watched the fishermen above on the upper level casting the lines. They caught a lot of fish and hauled their catches upward past us as they pulled up their lines. A bit expensive for food but a great view across the Bosphorus Straight. On our second visit to the restaurant, we actually negotiated the price of the meal before we sat down!
Agatha Christie was a well known guest at Pera Palace Hotel in Istanbul – room 411! There is a restaurant at the train station full of photos of her and her book “Murder on the Orient Express! Good food with a 1920s-30s ambiance.
The captivating city of Istanbul, the dazzling rock forms of Cappadocia, the ancient ruins of Ephesus, the luminous Mediterranean, Aegean, Black Sea, and Sea of Marama coastlines made our trip unforgettable. We did not stray too close to the Syrian border (much in the news during our stay),Hopefully we can explore this area next time as is there is much to see. Every region of this country is enticing and has something distinct to offer.