Kandylakia (“candles” in Greek) are miniature churches and shrines found along roads all over Greece. From bustling cities to quiet, sparsely populated towns, to the many islands of the Greek archipelago, they dot the landscape on highways and dirt roads and in front of businesses and homes. They represent faith and devotion in the Greek Orthodox tradition.
The shrines might be made of wood, wax or metal, but the many we saw were mainly concrete and stone. Some are very simple; others are much more elaborate. Many are as old as the road on which they sit. As the name suggests, most have prayer candles inside them. They are here to remind us to approach the road with caution, to appreciate every moment in life, and to celebrate what a blessing it is to be alive.
Often, Kandylakia are placed where fatal accidents have occurred. Thus, they may appear on winding roads or on steep hillsides with hairpin turns. The small shrines, set by families of the victims, are memorials to the dead. They also warn the driver of potential dangers. A driver might assess the risk of a particular road simply by gaging the number of Kandylakia on a stretch of road.
Not all mark accidents with a tragic outcome. Kandylakia are also placed by survivors of accidents in thanks to God or the saint which protected them. Other Kandylakia honor weddings or baptisms or bring blessings with protection to the household where they are exhibited. Others simple indicate the location of a nearby church or monastery.
The more detailed Kandylakia are intricately designed representations of Greek Orthodox churches, with elaborate carvings, and hand painted icons. Inside are icons of saints, floating wick oil lamps, flowers, and personal items of those who passed.
Kandylakia date back to the Byzantine era (4th through 15th centuries). Transportable religious icons were used for personal worship. Over time they evolved into miniature churches, crafted by accomplished artisans and used as offerings or gifts. On the island of Crete, we were very fortunate to visit a studio (whose name in Cyrillic script translates simply to “Stone Buildings”) where the most remarkable examples of this art are created. Unfortunately, we were unable to have one of these beautiful shrines shipped home!