Guanajuato

Guanajuato has been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1988. Homes in every conceivable color drape the hillsides above the center of the city. Bright, brilliant colors in a jumble of architectural styles. There is a stark gritty atmosphere here which is very different than San Miguel de Allende. Large sections of the town are not fully restored yet are strikingly beautiful. They are filled with colorful plazas, historic churches with an animated atmosphere of winding streets and narrow back alleys. Here too are many sites related to the Mexican Revolution of 1910.

It is a great city for walking. The narrow, tight streets are annoying and disorienting for cars. One of the city’s distinctive features is a labyrinth of underground tunnels that are utilized as roads. You can easily get lost down there. Better to park down below and walk up into town.

Some of the best sights in town are:

The Basilica of Guanajuato (Basilica Colegiata de Nuestra Señora de Guanajuato) is of an impressive Baroque design with a gemstone inlaid Virgin Mary statue. Legend says that, as protection from repeated invasions by the Moors, this Mary was hidden in a cave in Spain for 800 years. King Phillip II of Spain gifted it to Guanajuato. The Basilica is a significant structure in the main plaza. It was initially constructed in 1671 but has had a number of alterations and additions. The exterior is painted bright yellow with burgundy details and a domed roof.

The Monument to Pipila (Monumento El Pípila), located on the hillside, honors Juan José de los Reyes Martínez, a hero of Mexican independence. From here you can see panoramic views of the city)  It is reachable by funicular or by a number of steep flights of stairs.

Alley of the Kiss (Callejón del Beso) has a romantic legend, promising love—well, seven years of love—for those who kiss on its steps. It is a great spot for photos.

The Mummy Museum (Museo de las Momias) is my favorite site in Guanajuato. Human remains mummify naturally in the high desert. No embalming necessary. This underground museum offers a fascinating view of over a hundred mummies or mummified bodies from the 19^th and 20^th centuries. Plenty of local history here. Get here early to avoid the crowds. It is the city’s top attraction.

Diego Rivera Museum: The birthplace of the legendary muralist, full of antique furniture and his early art works. It is a compact museum on three floors located in the historic city center. The ground floor has been furnished to reflect the home as it was during the artist’s childhood. The upper floors display some early paintings, sketches and a small collection of his work.

The Regional Museum of Guanajuato (Museo Regional de Guanajuato Alhóndiga de Granaditas) covers the city’s early history and culture.The building it is housed in is a Neoclassic in style and was originally a public granary.

The Iconographic Museum of Don Quixote (Museo Iconográfico del Quijote) features art inspired by Miguel de Cervantes’ classic novel. The museum contains over a thousand pieces of art. Do not miss the Cervantes Event in October

Calle de Sopeña is a street lined with art galleries, shops, and cafes. It is one of many streets, plazas, and back alleys that attract the adventuresome explorer.

Jardín de la Unión is a central plaza located in the historic heart of Guanajuato with beautiful gardens, cafes with lively music, and street performances.

Calle del Truco is a colorful street with local history and eye-catching architecture. The street is often filled with young people headed to the college on the street.

Underground Tunnels: Explore Guanajuato’s underground streets, originally built to divert flooding from “Rio Guanajuato”, now a pedestrian experience with cars and traffic. It may not be the best place to walk because of all the traffic fumes! It serves as the best way to divert traffic from the city center.

Funicular Panorámico is a train ride to the top of the hills for spectacular views and access to El Pípila monument. Located behind the Teatro Juarez this cable car transfers you to the most breathtaking views of the city. It looks incredible at sunset when the lights come up for the evening. You can take the funicular back or walk down through charming alleyways full of residences and cafes.

The Christ the King Monument (Cristo Rey Statue) is a 22-meter (72 feet) bronze statue, set 2,570 meters (8430 feet) above sea level, offering an unforgettable panorama view of Guanajuato.

Attend, if you can, the Day of the Dead (Dia De Los Muertos) celebration here at the end of October and the first part of November. The events feature colorful altars to the dead, parades and a festival-like atmosphere. You will not soon forget this magical celebration.

San Miguel de Allende

San Miguel, founded in the 16^th century, is a beautiful mix of Baroque, Neoclassical, and Neogothic architecture. It is one of Mexico’s most vibrant cultural cities. The city center is a UNESCO World Heritage site. The city is a flourishing center for artists and art galleries and cultural events. Expatriates from all over the world have wisely chosen to live here.

San Miguel is a great city for walking, and walking is really the only way to see the central plaza (The Zocalo). The plaza’s Jardín Allende is a must-see attraction. Here, you can sense the animated energy of the city, see cultural street shows, listen to local music, and observe community celebrations like parades, religious processions or fireworks. There are loads of cozy cafes and great shopping in this plaza. Smaller churches and chapels located on back streets leading to The Zocalo. They are full of emotive art, sculptures and altars.

Some of the best sites are:

The Parish of San Miguel Arcángel (Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel) is a stunning pink church with a neo-Gothic style that looms over the historic center.  Elegant altars, dramatic paintings and statues line the lavish interior. The building dates back to the 17^th century with a façade added in the late 19^th century. The façade was inspired by cathedrals in Europe. It is the perfect venue for a romantic wedding. We witnessed one on our visit.

Don’t miss the Crafts Market (Mercado de Artesanías), a lively and vibrant setting where you can find everything from art pieces, hand painted ceramics, embroidered clothing, handbags and jewelry. Do not forget to bargain for the best price!

The House of the De La Canal Estate (Casa del Mayorazgo de la Canal) is an impressive 18^th century neoclassical building with baroque features, located close to Jardin de Allende. It is a cultural center of the Banamex bank that offers free exhibitions to the public of decorative items and art.

The Ignacio Ramirez Cultural Center (Centro Cultural Ignacio Ramírez El Nigromante, known locally simply as “El Nigromante”) is part of the National Institute of Fine Arts (INBA). The building was built in 1755 as a convent for the “Las Monjas” or nuns of the Conception. It was also a primary school during the 19^th century. Later, it was repurposed and became a school of fine arts. It has attracted many famous artists over the years, among them David Alfaro Siqueiros, Eleanor Cohen, and Pedro Martínez, as well as an international following. There are murals on the wall “The Fanaticism of the People” by Martinez, “The Washers” by Cohen and “The Life and Work of General Ignacio de Allende” by Siqueiros.

The La Aurora Cultural Center of Art and Design (Fabrica La Aurora) is a former textile factory repurposed into a lively art and design center. It stages art, design, and crafts exhibitions of various artists who live in San Miguel. The center also hosts events and concerts throughout the year. Many of the artists and craftsmen have studios there. There is a wide variety of shopping, antique shops, furniture stores and boutiques selling clothing, handbags and home décor. There are several restaurants too on site.

Hot Air Ballooning: Globo San Miguel is a top choice for ballooning over San Miguel. Floating above the colorful city at dawn as the sun rises over the horizon is dazzling – hues of orange, pink and mauve infuse the sky as you float gracefully above the historic city and countryside fields. It is truly an unforgettable experience.

The Botanical Garden and Nature Reserve (El Charco del Ingenio) features walking trails through a canyon with spring fed pool. Great bird watching opportunities with many examples of Mexican cactus and succulents.

If you want a daytrip out of either San Miguel Allende or Guanajuato, the city of Dolores Hildago is a charming and historical. It played an important role in Mexican independence and you can experience true Mexican culture there.

Guanajuato and San Miguel de Allende are Spanish colonial jewels of Mexico’s central highlands. They are renowned for their 16^th through 18^th century architecture. The two are amongst the most beautiful of the 36 UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Mexico.

Woodland’s central structure, a red roofed mansion, built in 1834, sits amidst a rural setting of the Mississippi River levee. It is a raised Creole design with Greek Revival features. The image of the house has graced the label of Southern Comfort whiskey- based liqueur for more than seventy-five years.

Woodland Plantation has had a long varied history and has experienced its share of hurricanes. Ravages of time and weather reduced the plantation to near ruins. The Creppel family bought the property in 1997 and completely renovated it. Woodland opened as a bed and breakfast in 1999.

Foster Creppel, the current owner describes his property as a rustic “country inn”. The main house contains nine bedrooms of which you can stay that have been thoughtfully restored and beautifully furnished with antiques from the period. Other 19th Century buildings have been brought to property. One of the most significant is Spirits Hall, a deconsecrated Catholic church from 1883, now the plantation’s dining area “Spirits Hall”, once known as St. Patrick’s Catholic Church, was transplanted to Woodland Plantation in October 1998. It was moved from Homeplace, Louisiana, 14 miles south of Woodland and restored and repurposed into a beautiful dining and reception space. Weddings and special events are perfect for this property.

Over time the mix of buildings has expanded with the addition of a number of historic structures, other buildings—an overseer’s house and an old cabin—are original to the plantation – additional buildings, each with their own unique charm, are the Magnolia Store, the Little House, all of which can serve as a romantic accommodations.

There are many other choices of lodging here. There are nine guest rooms in the main house with private baths. We stayed in the stilt duplex cabin at the front of the property which was loaded with signed art by David Bates a well-known American artist. It was spacious and very private. We loved the experience there. A full complimentary breakfast, including eggs and sausage cooked to order, is included. On New Years Eve, we enjoyed a five-course gourmet dinner which could compete with any meal you can find in New Orleans. Quite a festive event which we thoroughly enjoyed. You can sign up for a meal plan and have a delicious dinner here every night if you wish.

One of the most popular things to do here is fishing. Knowledgeable guides can take you spin fishing, fly fishing, or deep-sea fishing. Numerous fishing boats set out from here while we stayed over holiday week. You will love the drive towards the far tip of Louisiana, which points like a finger out into the Gulf. It is a unique mix of refineries, small fishing villages and beautiful wetlands full of water birds.

You will be dazzled by this beautiful environment with a unique array of flora and wildlife. This special wetland is gradually disappearing so careful preservation is needed. For information about staying here contact woodlandplantation.com.

The Sacred Valley lies between the towns of Pisac and Ollantaytambo, northwest of Cusco. The Urubamba River meanders through the valley. Elevations vary from 9,000 ft (2,750 m) on the valley floor to more than 16,000 ft (4,900 m) at the top of the Andes peaks. Sacred Valley’s altitude is lower than that of Cusco’s, making it a great place to adapt to the altitude. Some of the more interesting villages are Ollantaytambo, Urubamba, Pisac, and Chinchero. Each with unique personalities; many with Incan ruins. Chincero is the central village for textiles in the area.

The history of the Sacred Valley fuses closely with the Incan capital city of Cusco and Machu Picchu. The Incan Empire began its rise in the 13^th century, reached its peak in the 15^th century, and fell to Spanish conquistadors in the 16^th. The Incans stretched across Peru and into Bolivia, Ecuador, Chile, Argentina and Colombia. Cusco was the seat of power, where the king resided. The neighboring fields of the Sacred Valley fed the civilization, producing large assortments of grains, fruits and vegetables. During this period Incan stonemasons constructed spiritual temples and settlements in the valley. Today, you can visit archaeological sites in Pisac, Ollantaytambo and Chinchero. Very early in the 20^th century Yale historian and professor Hiram Bingham reached the ruins of Machu Picchu. National Geographic recorded Bingham’s expedition and focused the world’s attention on this lost city covered by jungle. In 1999 PeruRail began offering tourists train service to Machu Picchu. Today, tourism in the Sacred Valley is stretching what the infrastructure can handle. UNESCO, local movements and projects are at work to help preserve the ancient Quechua traditions.

Here some of the most unique villages in the Sacred Valley followed by Machu Picchu and Cusco:

Chinchero

Photo by John Shay

Chinchero is typically rather relaxed, but Sundays—market days—are quite lively, with dealers offering local crafts and farm products. We stopped at a dealer of shawls and textile products, and were treated to a demonstration of applying natural dyes to Alpacan wool. Alpacas were available for petting. So was a pen of cute guinea pigs, destined, alas, for someone’s dinner table—a delicacy in Peru.  Also, you cannot miss the traditional dress of ladies in braids and in hats walking through the streets here. Andean weaving is featured throughout the Sacred Valley—nowhere more so than in Chinchero.

Between Ollantaytabo and Chinchero are Moray and Maras. Moray is known for its unique concentric agriculture terraces which were designed to create different microclimates.It was developed to experiment with crops to see how they would perform in different altitudes and temperatures. It was very much an ancient botanic workshop. Maras is a salt mine known for its pre-Incan salt pans which are terraced. They create a striking view against the hillside. The town of Maras is very charming too with a town square and beautiful church. Both sites are within a quick driving distance of one another.

Pisac

Pisac is primarily known for its ruins and its market. The road from Cusco to Pisac is full of green fields with pigs, sheep and cows grazing in the fields. The road meanders through the mountains and plunges downward into the Sacred Valley. Popular days in Pisac are Sundays and Thursdays. In the town’s main plaza, residents of the area sell Andean crafts and farm grown fruits and vegetables. Handmade textiles with natural dyes abound here. Local tourist-oriented vendors display colorful scarves, shawls and hats made of alpaca wool, a specialty in Peru. The Incan archaeological site resting high above town is well worth the visit.  The ruins built around 1450 feature agricultural terraces and a temple complex.

Ollantaytambo

A historic, bustling town whose archeological site is built upon the rise of a narrow mountainside. Steep stone steps ascend to the well-preserved Incan fortress, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The panoramic views at the top are well worth the steep climb. The town is full of great shopping and restaurants. The train station in Ollantaytambo is where travelers catch the train to Machu Picchu. With no direct road to the famous citadel in the Andes, Ollantaytambo is the launching point. En route to the old historic part of town you will pass the Skylodge a hotel which is a series of pods clinging to a cliff face. These transparent luxury capsules have the most remarkable views of the Sacred Valley as well astonishing starry night skies. You can hike up to the pod and take a zipline down to the valley floor. Not the best place to stay if you are nervous about high places!

Urubamba

Urubamba does not have ruins but does have a river flowing through beautiful hillsides, and boutique and luxurious resort hotels located along or near the famous Urubamba River. The Urubamba valley is the perfect place to enjoy the beauty of the Sacred Valley at a slower pace and get acclimated to the altitude. Here you can enjoy small, private hotels on garden properties with spa amenities, and landscapes from your hotel room window. It is also a 20-minute drive from Ollaytaytambo, where you catch the train to Machu Picchu. We stayed in the Andean Wings Valley Hotel, in their casita. Loved the extra space the gardens. They also had several free cultural events while we stayed here. The restaurant and their kind staff were very helpful. It was one of our favorite places to stay during our whole South American trip.

Cusco

Photo by John Shay

With its airport, Cusco is a main hub for entering the Sacred Valley. Its unique and historic architecture has earned it a listing as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Visitors these days travel to Cusco and use the town as a base for exploring Machu Picchu. The Incan treasures which were once in Cusco would have been even more impressive than those of Machu Picchu. The stunning mix of colonial architecture, intermingled with fantastic Incan ruins, make this a highlight in Peru. Cusco is believed to be the longest, continuously inhabited city in the Western hemisphere. Founded in 1100 AD, Cusco is built in the heart of one of the world’s most spectacular mountainous regions

Be aware about driving in Cusco It is like  a demolition derby when driving out from the airport—we couldn’t wait to get out of town. It was much better driving in the countryside.

Machu Picchu

This 15^th century marvel, long lost and forgotten by man, is now one of the most visited destinations in the Americas. Dramatically perched on top of a mountain in the middle of a tropical forest, this sanctuary impresses not only for its architectural significance but for its spectacular, inaccessible location. It was declared a heritage site in 1983 by UNESCO and is undoubtably the most remarkable surviving structure of the Incan Empire. This citadel is made up of temples, palaces, terraces, monuments, and complexes. Stone channels built to drain off water, and still intact, have helped to preserve the site over the centuries. The precision with which the large blocks of stone, are placed without any space between them, rivals the pyramids of Egypt. After your train trip from Ollaytaytambu to Aguacalientes you will get off the train and take a bus up to the top. Machu Picchu will take your breath away! Not only because of the high altitude hike but it is absolutely dazzling! You will not soon forget the epic beauty of this UNESCO World Heritage site.

The Amazon rainforest covers eight different South America countries. The largest expanse lies in Brazil. We chose to enter the Amazon through Ecuador because of the relative ease of access. But it is not a short drive from the capital city of Quito. Ecuador’s Amazonia crosses six provinces: Napo, Sucumbios, Pastanza,  Morona Santiago, and Zamora Chinchipe. The Napo and Pastanza provinces contain Yasuni Park, one of the most bio-diverse areas on earth. Jaguars, tapirs, monkeys, caimans and parrots as well as other unique flora and fauna can be found in the region.

The Ecuadorian Amazon is also known for the Taromenane and the Tagaeri, isolated indigenous tribes, living deep within its forests. There are very few members of this population left and they live in purposeful isolation, avoiding all contact with the outside world. These tribes dwell within the margins of the Yasuní National Park, where their right to privacy is protected by Ecuador’s constitution.

The Yasuni Bioshere Reserve has some diverse plants, fish (including piranhas, which are not quite as terrifiying as in popular lore), mammals (monkeys and jaguars) reptiles (anacondas and iguanas) and many types of insects. Many more than you can ever imagine! One of those insects is the bullet ant, which has a very painful bite, whose effects last 24 hours.  The bullet ant is large, but not the largest in the Amazon. You have to go downstream into Brazil to see the really big ones (dinoponera gigantea). The Yasuni National park is a long boat ride from the lodge where we stayed but we will definitely visit it the next time we are here. It is well worth the journey.

The Amazon is also a birdwatcher’s wonderland! Ecuador’s birding is world renowned, with an estimated 1600 species: more than twice the amount found in all of North America. Among the more colorful and exotic ones are macaws, toucans and tanagers.

Near our lodge are many marvels to see in the rainforest itself: the spectacular waterfalls, AmaZOOnico (jungle wildlife rescue center opened in 1993 on the banks of the Napo river), along with many nature reserves and parks. On our walk on the grounds  in AmaZOOnico we saw  a scorpion, large spiders and wild monkeys in the trees. The other animals we saw there were being rehabilitated. It is a fantastic and yet peaceful walk through the zoo in the jungle.

Also close to where we stayed is The Cacao Farm, a wonderful place to experience local preparations of chocolate. The beans are harvested from the pod; the seeds are dried in the pan and ground into a chocolate paste. The chocolate and fresh fruit fondue they served us there tastes delectable. There is also a scenic butterfly farm  with some of the most exotic and beautiful butterflies I have ever seen! You can see them from a sheltered chrysalis form through mature butterfly.

.    .   

One of my favorite experiences here was exploring a medicinal shaman’s garden. The shaman, Luis, showed us many medicinal and healthful plants, did a cleansing ceremony for me which made my ears pop. The ceremony cleared from me the unease which I had experienced from altitude changes (Quito is above 9,000 feet) and the treatment gave me an overall feeling of well-being. Luis also introduced me to Guayusa tea, which has natural caffeine and antioxidants. I continue to drink it here back at home. I bought some dragon’s blood, a tree resin which is used to heal wounds and used in spiritual rituals. The grounds also contained a number of indigenous animal traps which were used in the past. It was a very interesting afternoon!

We also enjoyed a local artisan who carved beautiful figures from nature in Balsa wood. We could not resist an exotic bird sculpture!

We took a number of hikes through the jungle, one was straight up a flowing creek. Our guide Gus showed us how to start a fire with flint and local tree materials. He also showed us how we could survive on ants and termites! We also visited a pond loaded with caiman crocodiles.

.   .  

We stayed in a delightful lodge, Casa del Suizo, located on the Napo river, the Amazon river’s largest and most mighty tributary. Casa del Suizo is described as “remote yet accessible.” Our suite was perfect, with the best views and a jacuzzi on the deck with hammock. Exotic birds sang into our windows in the morning and into the night. These photos were taken off our private deck. The food was a buffet which had many choices of international and local food. We had our own professional private guide and driver, Gus Recalde. He picked us up in Quito, guided us everywhere in the Amazon and took some of the most amazing photos for the blog, then delivered us to the airport at the end of our amazing journey. We would also like to thank Miriam in sales and operations who suggested the suite and made all our arrangements while we were at the lodge. Everything was perfect!

Staying at this lodge with its professional staff and management-  where everything was arranged and included for our stay, made our time here the highlight of our trip to South America. Now, as I sit at home sipping my Guayusa tea I can still imagine the beautiful Napo river in front of me surrounded by the lush, tropical rain forest!

Sulawesi is one of largest islands in the Indonesian archipelago. The Torajan people of Southern Sulawesi are known for their elaborate death and funeral rituals. Many Torajan people today identify as Christian or Muslim. Fused into these faiths is animism—a belief that all things—animals, plants, wind, water, and air—possess a conscious life force or spiritual essence. Many hold the belief that their earliest ancestors were heavenly beings who came to Earth using a celestial stairway.

Death, for Torajans, is the most important event in life. When family members die, they are thought of, not as dead, but sick, and cared for out of love and respect for their deceased family members. The care may extend for months, sometimes years, and continues until and after the funeral service. In the time between an individual’s death and their internment, verses from the Bible or Koran are read daily, while the body is preserved — and ultimately mummified — with a mixture of formaldehyde and water.

Families maintain their deceased in separate rooms in their homes until they can save enough for the funeral. The services may last for a week with the sacrifice of many buffaloes and pigs. The higher the family status, the more animals sacrificed. After the service, the dead will be continually visited and cleaned and sometimes redressed in a ritual known as Ma’nene.

Torajans live in small, quiet villages off rustic dirt roads in the Sulawesi highlands. Their distinctive homes are known as Tongkonan. The buildings are erected on stilts of wood and bamboo and have long, narrow sweeping roofs resembling a saddle. Ornately carved window coverings and doors make the homes very beautiful.On posts in front of the homes are water buffalo horns. The more horns on display, the more prominent the family. These unique homes are an important part of Torajan life and culture. Weddings and religious ceremonies are conducted there.

After the funeral the dead are placed in spaces carved into cliffsides. Some in mass ancestral funeral towers Babies are put into hollowed out trees with the belief that as the tree regrows the spirit of the baby will inhabit the tree.

Another key element of Torajan funerals are wooden or bamboo carvings of loved ones called “tau tau.” These figures may be placed on a balcony in front of the tomb. Detailed tau tau are very expensive and may be kept in the home out of fear of it being stolen.

It is not unusual for tourists to be invited to the sacrifice of the animals at the funeral. It is believed to improve the family’s status. Our guide asked us to bring a gift of sugar and a pack of cigarettes as gifts.  We arrived after the slaughter of the buffalo, but saw pigs being carried off and sadly heard their squeals.

It is important to note that all of the meat is shared with family members and those that attend the ritual and the Torajans believe that the spirits of animals sacrificed accompany their loved ones into the afterlife.

The settlements, where time seems to slow down, offer a glimpse into a unique world.  Travel by horsedrawn buggies or by bicycle is common. Farmland is often ploughed with horses. The Amish are known for simple, distinctive clothing.

On our road trip, we stayed in Killbuck, close to Millersburg, a village of about 3,200 people and the Holmes county seat. Millersburg’s historic downtown, listed on the National Register, is full of antique and gift shops with one-of-a-kind treasures. Amish-made clothing with a contemporary flair is sold everywhere. Other shops boast metal works, glassware, handmade baskets, spoons, rugs and jewelry. These hand-crafted gifts are beautiful, functional and most likely have a cultural story to be told.

Among the dining options is a pub with its own brewery. Menus are not restricted to simple Amish fare, and something for all tastes can be found. Accommodations are within walking distance. The courthouse square is sprinkled with various architectural styles which add to the village’s ornate Victorian heritage and historic appeal.

Some specific attractions in Millersburg are:

Rails to Trails (62 N. Grant St.) is a 15-mile walking/biking and buggy trail over rolling hills, close to the local wildlife.

Miller’s Bakery (4280 Township Road 356) offers delicacies baked fresh daily. They specialize in pastries, cookies, cheese tarts, and fruit pies. They also offer local crafts, such as home-crafted candies,

Amish and Mennonite Heritage Center (5798 County Road 77, located just north of Berlin) provides background on the formation of Anabaptist groups and records the migration of Amish and Mennonites into Holmes County. The Center includes a 265-foot mural illustrating the heritage. The center offers guided tours and features a restored bank barn with Conestoga wagon and a one-room schoolhouse. It may be the best resource for any questions regarding the Amish cultures.

Heini’s Cheese Chalet (6005 County Road 77) has been crafting artisan-style cheeses since 1935. The owners partner with local dairy farmers to produce the freshest cheeses. You can watch the cheesemaking process if you arrive in the morning. The shop offers over 50 sampling varieties of cheese, meat, jams and fudge.

Addie’s Fabric Shop (3092 County Road 135) offers a large selection of fabrics, casual handbags plants and baby items. The people that run the shop are helpful and very friendly. Horse and buggies are parked outside.

The Victorian House Museum (484 Wooster Road) is a must-see. Visitors can explore hundreds of years of history within its walls. Tales are that this unique mansion is haunted.

Don’t miss this delightful piece of Ohio. In addition to Millersburg other Amish towns are nearby, Berlin, Sugarcreek and Walnut creek just to name a few- all waiting to be explored.

The island is the birthplace of one of Europe’s oldest cultures. The Minoans, regarded by some as the first civilization in Europe, thrived in Crete from about 3000 to 1450 BC. Many Bronze Age sites survive across the island, the most famous being the 4000-year-old Palace of Knossos.

Over the centuries, control of Crete passed among Greece, Rome, the Arabs, the Byzantines, the Venetians, and the Ottomans. Crete was briefly an independent state before its final union with Greece.

The Venetians, who ruled Crete from the 13^th through 17^th Centuries, constructed ports, fortresses, and dramatic palaces. Some of the best surviving examples are located in Heraklion, Chania, and Rethymno.

Whether you are enticed here by its beaches, its ancient sites with art and architecture, or the delicious cuisine, Crete offers something for every visitor. A road trip will be the best way to enjoy the gorges and the steep, rocky interior.

Dring our visit, we stayed in a renovated villa in the old town of Rethymno, a city located on the north coast and a perfect location to explore the island. Parking can be a challenge in old European cities, but nearby the villa was an inexpensive lot. The space was immaculate with a fine selection of Greek wine and has an astonishing roof top terrace. The Stephani Home was perfect. The host Mano was very kind and helpful, and met us at the parking lot.

Rethymno’s old town is a tangle of ancient stone paths that make up its Venetian quarter. The harbor is full of fishing boats and lined with atmospheric tavernas. The lighthouse dates from the 1830s, and the Fortezza is a 16^th Century citadel. Rethymno is a central place to stay and allowed us to explore the island without changing lodging.

Here are some of the best things to see in Crete:

Heraklion

Heraklion is Crete’s governmental capital and principal city, known for its vivacious urban ambiance, waterfront cafes, and its archaeological museum.

Close to the city, standing on a hill, is the Knossos Palace, the principal center of the Minoan civilization and home of the mythologic King Minos. It may also be the site of the Labyrinth, which held the murderous beast, The Minotaur, ( a mythical beast with a human body and bulls head) though all scholars do not agree on its location. Nothing of the Labyrinth is known to survive. The palace’s ancient frescos are full of nature and light and have been well renovated.

Phaestos

Phaestos, another Minoan palace-city, is located in central southern Crete. Its impressive setting has scenic views of the Messara Plain and Mount Psiloriti.

Elafonisi

Elafonisi is an island with a small islet filled with white and pink sandy beaches. It is full of sand dunes with sea flora including daffodils, seagrasses and juniper trees. The area also includes the endangered loggerhead sea turtles, and some more rare animals and plants. At low tide, the island can be reached by foot.

Monastery of Arkadi

The Monastery of Arkadi is built on the edge of a high plateau, near the Arkadi Gorge, 23 km (14 miles) southeast of Rethymno. It is believed to be founded in the 11^th Century. The monk Arkadios dedicated it to Emperor Constantine and his mother Helena. The site played an important role in the 1866 revolt against the Ottomans.

Moni Preveli

Further south from Rethymno is Moni Preveli, a Medieval monastery perched high above the Libyan Sea. It consists of two separate building complexes and includes a small museum, and is well worth the 37 km (22 mile) scenic drive from Rethymno.

Lasithi Plateau

Lasithi Plateau, a center of the Minoan culture, has been inhabited since Neolithic times. It is well known for its ancient windmills and beautiful landscape.

The Church of Panagia Kera

The Church of Panagia Kera, located close to the village of Kritsa, is known for its well-preserved Byzantine frescos.

Samaria Gorge is the most dramatic of Crete’s many gorges and one of longest canyons in Europe.

Chania

Chania (also spelled Hania) is Crete’s most beautiful city. The old town is Venetian with its maze of cobbled streets and a magnificent harbor. Traces of Venetian and Ottoman architecture are all around, with old townhouses now repurposed into harborside restaurants and boutique hotels.

Crete is a fusion of extraordinary beaches, ancient treasures and stunning landscapes. From the well-known spots along the north coast to small villages and canyons of the mountainous heart, you will not soon forget this gorgeous, varied land with its mythical legends, delicious food and welcoming people.

We went to Ankara as a base for visiting Hittite ruins in Hattusa (see my article on this ancient civilization in an earlier post). Ankara was a bit too hectic for me, and our time might have been better spent in other parts of Turkey.
Our historic hotel, the Divan Cukurhan however, was a beautiful property right across from the Old Town (see A Room with a View for a description). The sites of the out of town ruins were well worth the drive!

Our next stop was Göreme, in the Cappadocia region in the heart of Turkey.

Cappadocia is a geological moonscape in the center of Anatolia. It’s honeycombed hills and soaring boulders rank with Earth’s most striking natural formations. One of the Star Wars movies was filmed in Cappadocia to exploit the unique terrain. Among the unique features are “fairy chimneys, large conelike structures created by the erosion of soft volcanic ash and rock. Ancient cultures dug into them to create lodgings, castles, and vast underground complexes. Subterranean cities like Kaymakli and Derinkuyu were used as hiding places by early Christians.

Cappadocia’s role in early Christianity comes to life at the Göreme Open Air Museum and in the  cave churches dispersed throughout the neighboring valleys. Göreme is the gateway to the Göreme National Park where many of these churches rest. It is a vast UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Weather permitting—particularly wind permitting—take a hot-air balloon ride over Cappadocia. It will be an unforgettable experience. One of the better companies is Turquaz Balloons.

We stayed in Aza Cave (see my article about Turkish stays in a room with a view). It is surrounded by fairy chimneys, and in the mornings the balloons were low in the sky above us! It is near some fine Turkish restaurants. One of them is in the Aza Cave itself, with our room came a delicious complimentary breakfast with local appetizers and egg dishes with one of the most varied and elaborate breakfast choices we have ever seen.

Easy drives from Göreme  are rural Turkish villages, such as Güzelyurt. In times past, historic enemies lived there together in peace. It is full of ancient cliffside churches. On the 35-mile drive we saw a lot of harvesting of pumpkins and rutabagas.

We went from Göreme to Antalya. Enroute, we stopped in Konya to see the tomb of Rumi, a 13^th Century poet, scholar, mystic and a major advocate of Sufi Mysticism. His tomb is beautiful and often crowded with devotees and visitors. Some of his poetic verses were quite romantic descriptions of love: “You are the Essence of the Essence, The intoxication of Love. I long to sing Your Praises but stand mute with the agony of wishing in my heart!” Konya is also one of the best places to attend Sufi Whirling Dervish dances a Sufi order Rumi founded.

We drove on to Antalya – a stunning seaside town, part of the “Turkish Riveria.” Much of the city is modern,  and bustling, and the Old Town is full of outstanding Ottoman architecture and is quite intriguing. Hadrian’s Gate, a  Roman ruin, stands only a short walk from where we stayed (see my article about Turkish stays in A Room with a View—a great place to stay, with a wonderful host).

From Antalya’s Old Town, we took daytrips to some appealing natural wonders (the Manavgat Waterfall just outside the village of Side) and to Lycian, Hittite, Greek and Roman ruins. The bronze age era Greek city  of Perge and the Roman amphitheater of Aspendos are all worth a short daytrip while in Antalya. Throughout human history and before, the Eternal Flame on Mount Olympos -Chimaera  or “Burning Rock” have been on fire with methane and hydrogen gases which emerge from the Earth’s interior. Getting a good view of the fires is a bit of a Hellish, steep hike but well worth the journey. Wear excellent walking shoes and be prepared for a rocky uphill climb. There is also Side, an ancient port village with classic Greco-Roman ruins.

The shortest drive from Antalya to Fethiye is through the interior of Anatolia, but the longer coastal drive, along the colorful, meandering Turquoise coast, is most memorable. On the coastal route, you’ll pass ancient relics, particularly the ruins in Phaselis and Patara. For lunch on the all-day drive, we stopped in the beautiful coastal town of Kas and ate at a seaside restaurant with a wonderful view of the beaches and water. Those that love more resort type adventures may want to stay here.

Fethiye is an ideal base for exploring a number of sites. Lycian tombs are carved into cliffs in the area. We drove to the Dalyan Delta for a boat ride to view the tombs carved into the hillside. The Myra Necropolis is a haunting tribute to the dead. Very close to Fethiye is a Greek ghost town, abandoned a century ago. So much to see in the region!

From where we parked to where we stayed in Fethiye is a very steep hike, but our host—bless him—not only insisted on carrying our luggage but also walked the long descent into town for some snacks. After a long day of driving, his assistance was not only appreciated, but necessary! See A Room with a View for where to stay in Fethiye available through AirBnB.

From Fethiye we drove to the small town of Sirence, only a short drive from the ancient Greek, later Roman city of Ephesus. We stayed in the hills above Sirence and enjoyed the picturesque Ottoman architecture of the village below. We were surrounded by acres of olive groves, in a totally peaceful cottage with a private infinity pool (see a room with a view with Turkish stays). Nearby on the weekend is a lively outdoor market which can only be called “knock-off city,” with quality copies of almost every name brand. You can find beautiful local fruits, vegetables, textiles there as well as clothing and household items. We blew our budget for goodies there.

We marveled at Ephesus – much had changed since our visit 12 years before. Much more excavated and large tourist crowds. The temple of Hadrian, the Great Theater, the Library of Celsus and the terraced houses are among the top sites in this UNESCO World Heritage Site. Nearby, on Mount  Koressos is The House of the Virgin Mary, where Jesus’ mother is believed to have spent her last years. Exactly when she died is unknown. The site is often crowded with tourists and visiting pilgrims.

From Sirence, we drove through a geological marvel, Pamukale, which means “the white cotton castle.” The UNESCO World Heritage Site features natural bright, white, dripping terraces unlike anything we have ever seen.We spent the morning looking at the striking thermal pools and hiking through the Roman and Byzantine ruins of Hierapolis. We stayed in a small village a few hours north for the night so we would have a full day to drive on to Amasra, a village located on the edge of northern Turkey.

Amasra is a beautiful Black Sea town clinging to a small peninsula which juts out to the sea. The castle was founded in 339 and is the centerpiece of the quaint Old Town. Sunsets from here are truly amazing.

From Amasra, we visited the nearby Ottoman town of Safranbolu, another UNESCO World Heritage Site. Safranbolu was named for the highly prized saffron which was grown and traded here. For centuries, it played a role in the Caravan trade as a stop on the route between Europe and the Orient. It is very popular with visitors interested in its Ottoman atmosphere and architecture. Many of the historic 17^th Century wood-framed Ottoman homes have been restored. Some have been repurposed as boutique hotels, cafes and restaurants. Also in the area is Yenice Forest, a picturesque place to hike or picnic to experience colorful canyons and waterfalls.

Our last stop was in Istanbul, a most unique city that staddles the continents of Europe and Asia, separated by the Bosphorus Strait. This multilayered metropolis has experienced the rise and collapse of the Byzantine and Ottoman empires. Its architecture is a fusion of the empires’  and European architecture.

We opted to stay in Beyoglu, a neighborhood known for its European architecture from the early 1900s. The area is full of contemporary culture, food and nightlife. We stayed directly across from the Galata tower and enjoyed outstanding views of the Bosporus from its upstairs terrace (see a Room with a View with Turkish stays).

In Istanbul, we had a wonderful guide, Mr. Önal of Istanbul Sightseeing Tours. He quickly and efficiently took us to all the highlights—the famous bazaar,  the Blue Mosque, the Hagia Sophia, the Topkapi Palace, and enchanting Roman Cisterns beneath the city streets. He was very informative, even while driving the car through the very tricky Istanbul traffic. Thanks to him, we also went for photos to places with wonderful panoramic views of the city. All that in one day. That evening, we splurged on a private boat to cruise the Bosphorus through Viator Tours.

Not far from our rooms was the Galata bridge, which connects the two halves of Istanbul, as well as Europe and Asia. Many restaurants line the bridge’s lower level. While eating there, we  watched the fishermen above on the upper level casting the lines. They caught a lot of fish and hauled their catches upward past us as they pulled up their lines. A bit expensive for food but a great view across the Bosphorus Straight. On our second visit to the restaurant, we actually negotiated the price of the meal before we sat down!

Agatha Christie was a well known guest at Pera Palace Hotel in Istanbul – room 411! There is a restaurant at the train station full of photos of her and her book “Murder on the Orient Express! Good food with a 1920s-30s ambiance.

The captivating city of Istanbul, the dazzling rock forms of Cappadocia, the ancient ruins of Ephesus, the luminous Mediterranean, Aegean, Black Sea, and Sea of Marama coastlines made our trip unforgettable. We did not stray too close to the Syrian border (much in the news during our stay),Hopefully we can explore this area next time as is there is much to see.  Every region of this country is enticing and has something distinct to offer.

The shrines might be made of wood, wax or metal, but the many we saw were mainly concrete and stone. Some are very simple; others are much more elaborate. Many are as old as the road on which they sit. As the name suggests, most have prayer candles inside them. They are here to remind us to approach the road with caution, to appreciate every moment in life, and to celebrate what a blessing it is to be alive.

Often, Kandylakia are placed where fatal accidents have occurred. Thus, they may appear on winding roads or on steep hillsides with hairpin turns. The small shrines, set by families of the victims, are memorials to the dead. They also warn the driver of potential dangers.  A driver might assess the risk of a particular road simply by gaging the number of Kandylakia on a stretch of road.

Not all mark accidents with a tragic outcome. Kandylakia are also placed by survivors of accidents in thanks to God or the saint which protected them. Other Kandylakia honor weddings or baptisms or bring blessings with protection to the household where they are exhibited. Others simple indicate the location of a nearby church or monastery.

The more detailed Kandylakia are intricately designed representations of Greek Orthodox churches, with elaborate carvings, and hand painted icons. Inside are icons of saints, floating wick oil lamps, flowers, and personal items of those who passed.

Kandylakia date back to the Byzantine era (4th through 15th centuries). Transportable religious icons were used for personal worship. Over time they evolved into miniature churches, crafted by accomplished artisans and used as offerings or gifts. On the island of Crete, we were very fortunate to visit a studio (whose name in Cyrillic script translates simply to “Stone Buildings”) where the most remarkable examples of this art are created. Unfortunately, we were unable to have one of these beautiful shrines shipped home!

Lycians

The Lycian civilization reached its height in the 14th and 15th centuries BC, and thrived all along the Mediterranean coast. It extended to the ridge of the Taurus Mountains. It is also believed that the Lycian government was a democratic federation.

Today, the Lycians are primarily remembered for their tombs. The Lycian society put a great store in death and the afterlife. Carved into the rugged cliffs overlooking the Mediterranean Sea, the ancient Lycian tombs of the dead overlook villages, towns, canyons and coastlines. Some can even be seen in parks as part of the urban terrain. Within some tombs are surviving sarcophagi.

A number of these sites are paid by ticket but many more modest areas are free and can be found in small towns and out in the rural countryside. The best places to see these tombs are in Patara, Xanthos, Pinara, Olympos, Myra, Tlos, and Phaselis. We stayed in Fethiye which also has their own group of artifacts. We spent a day in Dalyan on a half day boat cruise to see some of the most spectacular tombs. It was well worth the 40-mile drive from Fethiye (See a room with a view for a great place to stay in Fethiye).

Hittites

More is known about the Hittite culture, which flourished between around 1650 and 1200 BC. Due to the Hittites’ dominance in Anatolia, and their interaction with other cultures, cuneiform tablets across the region survive and describe their business and political transactions. One of the tablets is a correspondence between Hittite Queen Puduhepa, and Queen Nefertari of Egypt.

The Hittites were a dominate civilization of their time, well-known to the Egyptians and Israelis. They are mentioned more than a dozen times in the Old Testament. Much of the Hittite empire would be absorbed by the Assyrians.

Ruins of Hattusa, the Hittite capital, are located about 90 miles east of present-day Ankara. Ruins of city walls, gates, temples and palaces date from the 13th Century BC. Admission fees are charged. Artifacts found at Hattusa and other sites may be viewed at Ankara’s Museum of Anatolian Civilizations. If you are visiting the Hittite sites you may want to stay in the capital city Ankara. We stayed in a beautiful historic 16th century inn called the Divan Cukurhan. It is right across the street from the castle and the Old Town. The rooms and the food in this inn are sumptuous!