Both holidays are dedicated to remembering the dead, including martyrs and saints and the faithful departed.

For Day of the Dead celebrants, the boundary between the spirit world and the natural world opens at this time. The holiday is a blend of Mesoamerican ceremony and Spanish Catholicism. The fusion began sometime in the 16^th Century, as the first Spanish missionaries encountered Aztec and Nahua traditions and rituals. The indigenous peoples living in what is now central Mexico held a cyclical view of the cosmos and believed death to be an essential part of life. They strove to make peace with the eventuality of death by treating it intimately without fear and dread.  Welcoming back their dead became an important tradition.

I have experienced this special event in Mexico on two different occasions, in Morelia and Oaxaca. I especially enjoyed the experience in Oaxaca, as it was loaded with festivities and stunning altars (ofrendas), and has a traditional feel, especially in the cemeteries,  Oaxaca’s historic downtown is loaded with altars for the ancestors. Ofrendas are often decorated with candles, vibrant marigolds called cempasúchil, along with foods such as tortillas, dulces (sweets) and fruit. Many homes have personal Altars/Ofrendas for their ancestors. Many head to cemeteries to decorate the graves.

The most conspicuous symbols of the Day of the Dead are calacas (skeletons) and calaveras (skulls) and painted faces. The face painting usually produces skulls, to remind us of the fleeting nature of life. In the early 20th century, printmaker and satirical cartoonist José Guadalupe Posada included skeletal figures in his artwork to scorn politicians and convey his feelings on revolutionary politics. His best-known work, La Calavera Catrina (“Elegant Skull”), depicts a female skeleton in full makeup, dressed with a hat in the stylish clothing of the day.

Day of the Dead in Mexico is an exciting and unforgettable experience  Make plans way in advance to get a hotel or special altar and cemetery tour in Oaxaca as things book up many months in advance.

Our first stop was New Orleans. We have family close by this extraordinary city, and one member works for the Bourbon Orleans Hotel in the French Quarter. This is a fine, historic hotel, steps from Bourbon Street and a short stroll to Jackson Square. It is a great location. If you are lucky enough to get a room with a balcony you will be able to see Bourbon Street as well as the back of the Saint Louis Cathedral. After dark, the shadow of an angel is projected on the illuminated cathedral wall. On a previous trip we visited the Historic Voodoo Museum on Dumaine Street, and shops like Madame Leveau’s House of Voodoo. Lots on New Orleans in my husband’s book on zombie movies, “Patron Saints of the Living Dead.” While we were there, the tall ships arrived as part of America’s 250^th anniversary celebration. Many of the sailors in their spotless white uniforms strolled along Bourbon Street that night. It looked like fleet week.

Driving north, we saw what was left of a local monster. What looked like the shredded tire from an 18-wheeler (plenty of those on the highway) was a large roadkill alligator. Someone had cut off its head. Not unexpected, for alligator skulls and dried, preserved heads are for sale everywhere in the area.

After a night on the road in Cullman, Alabama (charming town), we reached Louisville and stayed in nearby Prospect, Kentucky. Every year around Memorial Day, Louisville hosts Wonderfest, “a weekend of sci-fi, horror, comics, models, dealers, guests and seminars.”  The models of monsters, aliens, panoramas, and anything that tickles the fancy of those interested in science fiction and horror movies are created and on display here by incredibly talented artists. The guests include filmmakers and special effects experts. Workshops and roundtables are hosted on various topics.

That same weekend at the same hotel (Crowne Plaza Louisville) are the annual Rondo Hatton Classic Horror Awards, “honoring the best in classic horror research, creativity and film preservation.” The award is named for a character actor of the 1940s who had a brief period of stardom as “The Creeper.” My husband did not win anything this year, but he is a past two-time winner and a member of the Rondo’s Monster Kid Hall of Fame. The presentation ceremony is a simple, light-hearted affair, attended by a few dozen people. Winners are spread across the country and the globe, and most send their acceptance speeches on video. Some of this year’s came from the UK and New Zealand. David and Eileen Colton are responsible for this unique affair.

We have been to, and written about, Louisville several times, and have toured the main attractions (such as the Louisville Slugger Museum, Churchill Downs, the Muhammad Ali Center). One site which no visitor should outlook is the Cave Hill Cemetery & Arboretum. It is an old cemetery with countless unique carved stones and bronze headstones and monuments. The variety of trees and plants to be seen is very impressive. Among the permanent residents are Colonel Saunders of fried chicken fame, Muhammad Ali (a much-visited gravesite—we had to wait for cars to pull away to get a decent photo) and—in one of the most memorable graves—Harry Leon Collins, “Mr. Magic,” a Frito-Lay sales manager who switched careers to become a stage magician. Atop his grave is a life-size bronze statue, posed as if addressing an audience. A huge section of Cave Hill is a national cemetery for military veterans.

Cave Hill Cemetery is immaculately maintained. Not so, the adjacent Eastern Cemetery—abandoned and overgrown, with monuments cracking and tipping over. It is a spooky place and was once a site for mass paupers’ graves and reused graves.

Louisville does not lack spooky places. Waverly Hills Sanatorium was built in the wake of a tuberculosis epidemic, remembered as the “White Plague.” The sanatorium closed in 1961, and tours are now offered. Like most deserted sanatoriums, it is claimed to be haunted. Louisville’s Witches Tree is an old, gnarled, twisted maple that stands at the corner of a very pleasant neighborhood. Witches allegedly once performed rituals beneath it. The city cut down the original tree in 1889, and—so goes the legend—angry witches took revenge via summoning a destructive storm which did great damage. The tree which now stands on the same site began growing almost immediately after.

Every city needs an urban legend, and Louisville’s is The Goat Man, also known as The Pope Lick Creek Monster, half man and half beast (the beast half sports horns). It lives beneath a railroad trestle. Its legend has many variations, with The Goat Man using everything from hypnosis to ventriloquism to an axe to claim victims. Since 1988, believers have attributed five deaths on or near the bridge to The Goat Man. The Norfolk Southern Railway, which owns and maintains the bridge, does not agree and is not happy about the legend.

From Louisville, we drove east, stopping along the way in Foxburg, Pennsylvania, another charming town—so charming that we stayed there again on the drive home. We continued our trek east at a leisurely pace, away from the highways and through the mountains. Weird stuff is always near, and we stumbled on something really odd in Wyalusing, yet another charming town, this one with a population of less than 1,000. Perhaps its most famous resident—its only famous resident—was Jean Stevens, who kept the mummified bodies of her husband and twin sister in her home, and treated them as living members of the family. Apparently, a number of townspeople not only knew of her “family” but gave her a hand with the family when she needed it. Her story made a flash in the news in 2010. Jean was then 91. She died in 2012, but her legacy lives on, as does a mystery about what’s in a shed on her property that a no one dares go into.

We reached Wurtsboro, New York, nestled between the Poconos to the west and Catskills to the east. No monsters there, though sightings of a Big Foot type creature have been reported. In our travels, we have learned that there is hardly a wooded area in North America where someone does not claim to have seen Big Foot or something like it. We stayed in a cottagey cabin next to a babbling brook.

Far more tangible than the ever-elusive Big Foot is what lies in Blairstown, New Jersey, about an hour south of Wurtsboro. The Friday the 13^th franchise consists of 12 slasher films, and many spin off products, featuring masked killer Jason.  It all began in Blairstown where the first movie was made in 1980. The town has embraced its dark legacy. Camp No-Be-Bo-Sco (North Bergen Boy Scouts), where most of the story takes place, is advertised by its name in the film, Camp Crystal Lake, and sometimes offers tours (otherwise it is closed to the public). The Blairstown Diner, used for a scene early in the film, is not very large, but has devoted some of its precious space to a gift shop of Friday the 13^th tee shirts and souvenirs. A full-size Jason mannequin stands near the checkout counter. Movie posters and Jason’s iconic hockey mask adorn the walls. Out of the state visitors who come just to see the landmarks discover a rare treat—the charms and cuisine of a genuine Jersey diner. The first film was a huge success (around $60,000,000 gross on a $550,000 budget). Jason hit the big time and none of the sequels were made in Blairstown.

{Note: Horror film aficionados know that Jason does not appear until the second film and does not don his mask until the third—but both are more than welcome in the Blairstown Diner. By the way, Blairstown has no relation to The Blair Witch Project, which takes places in Maryland.}

Half an hour northwest of Wurtsboro is Bethel. For three days in August 1969, more than 400,000 people and dozens of music acts gathered there for the Woodstock Music Festival. The 300 acres are now on the National Register as culturally significant. The beautifully manicured site hosts outdoor concerts and boasts a museum. We enjoyed a snack on a verandah overlooking the grounds. So, if anyone asks, “Were you at Woodstock?”, we can say “Yes!” No events were underway while we were there, but judging from the size of the parking lot, and the posted list of do’s and don’ts, crowds during performances must be huge.

Half an hour north of Wurtsboro is a genuine ghost town, Parksville. The town is in the heart of what was known as “The Borscht Belt,” which sported vacation camps and resorts primarily for Jewish people. The area began to decline in the 1950s and is now only a memory. Watch the 1987 movie Dirty Dancing (all of it) and 1976’s The Front (part of it) to appreciate the Borscht Belt in its heyday. Parksville is partially populated. Stretches of empty, abandoned buildings—and a strange, abandoned parking lot with a few rusty, broken cars—comprise the ghost town. Nearby is the site of what was a buckle of the belt, Grossinger’s Resort. It closed in 1986, and time, neglect and finally fire (in 2022) have left little to see. If you’re interested in ghost towns, do not delay in visiting Parksville—restoration is underway.

From Wurtsboro we drove west to the Monster Bash. On the way, we made a pitstop in Brookville, PA and stumbled on an interesting coffee shop, Grounded Brewings, with a coffin in its logo and a skeleton in its window. We then passed West Sunbury, where one resident’s lawn statuary is iron sculptures of dinosaurs and Big Foot.

Our main stop on the way to Monster Bash was in Evans City, proclaiming itself “Home of Night of the Living Dead.”  The 1968 film opens in the Evans City Cemetery where the first zombie attack occurs. Headstones reading “Kramer” and “Blair” (what is it with that name?) are clearly seen in the film. When we visited, plenty of people were there not only photographing the graves but making charcoal rubbings. Night of the Living Dead was made on a budget of ~$120,000 and grossed about $30,000,000. Due to an error by the distributor, the film was not properly copyrighted, denying the film makers their fair share of the earnings.

{We would have liked to visit the sites of the making of another horror classic, 1958’s The Blob, filmed in southeastern Pennsylvania—too far off our planned path to reach this time.}

Photos courtesy of Phil Smoot

Since 1997, Ron and Ursula Adams and a team of enthusiastic volunteers have staged the three-day Monster Bash Convention, now held at the Pittsburgh Marriott North in Cranberry Township. The Bash celebrates classic horror films, and through the years, its guests have included many film makers and stars. The great stars of the golden age—Lugosi, Karloff, Chaney, Price—are long gone, but children of all of them have visited the Bash and shared memories. There are also a brilliant assortment of Horror Hosts. Collectors and vendors display their wares and their treasures for all to see. Movies—both the great classics, obscure movies and independent, innovative films—are shown and play well into the early morning hours.

Photo courtesy of Phil Smoot

Photo courtesy of Phil Smoot

And there are talks by film historians, and that’s where my husband comes in. He’s attended 21 Bashes (and I’ve been to 20) and lectured at most of them. This year, he and his fellow Monster Kid/author/film historian Greg Mank, spoke on the 1935 movie Mad Love. For three years now, Greg speaks before the showing of a film on its making and the behind-the-scenes story, then the movie is shown, then my husband delves into what’s in the movie and how it relates to the other films.

The audiences love them, in part because they put on a good show and in part because everyone is looking for a good time. The best thing about the Bash is the crowd. They come to laugh, to learn, to exchange experiences, and to buy! The vendors offer great, odd and funny stuff.

Ron Adams is always looking for the unexpected. For years, he had the original Blob on show (and we were allowed to touch it). A few years ago, he staged a fencing match between his daughter (then taking fencing in college) and actor/director/makeup & special effects artist Tom Savini. The year it was The Muppet Experience, with the original Muppets (bigger than you might think) filling a room on display.

After Monster Bash, we headed home, but made an important stop in Van Buren, Arkansas, for an event at “Monsters on Main,” a store on—you guessed it—Main Street. The shop offers many items related to monster and horror films—DVDs, tee shirts, collectibles, rare pieces, books, etc. And magazines—the owners, Don and Vicki Smeraldi, are also publishers of Scary Monsters and Castle of Frankenstein. My husband writes for both of them. He was one of three authors at a joint book signing, and then gave a talk on his favorite film, Abbott & Costello Meet Frankenstein. We’ve been to a lot of similar shops, and this one is by far the best.

Across the street from Monsters on Main is the King Opera House, built in 1891. It is haunted by the ghost of actor Charles Tolson. In September 1903, Tolson and his troupe completed their engagement at King’s and were at the nearby station awaiting a train. A doctor, allegedly protecting his daughter who had become infatuated with Tolson, shot and killed him.

From Van Buren, we drove to Dallas to visit family and friends. En route we passed through southeastern Oklahoma. In much of the state—as the song goes—“the wind comes sweepin’ down the plains.” Not in the southeast corner, which is mountainous, heavily wooded, and with stories of the local Big Foot abound.

In Dallas, we always visit—and spend more than we planned—in our favorite antique shop, Curiosities, near White Rock Lake on Garland Road. It had really, really weird stuff—ceremonial masks from different cultures, stuffed animals, antlers and skulls, holy icons, unholy icons. Owner Jerry Cohen and before him his mother have been acquiring such items from around the world for many years.

Curiosities is close to White Rock Lake, and we drove around it, wondering if we might see one of Dallas’ most famous, and permanent, residents. “The Lady of the Lake” is allegedly the ghost of a young woman who drowned there. A number of accounts of her tale are online, but none give her name or when she died. White Rock Lake is man-made, and opened in 1910, so the drowning was sometime after that.

The first sighting of her ghost may date to 1952. A young woman—long hair, tattered dress, soaking wet—emerges from the shadows and asks for a ride home. She gives an address in Oak Cliff (a Dallas neighborhood south of the lake). She gets in the backseat and, somewhere on the drive, simply vanishes, leaving behind a puddle of water on the seat.

For years, I lived a stone’s throw from White Rock Lake and never saw the lady. But I never stop for hitchhikers.

In the 1950s and 1960s, some low budget science fiction movies were filmed in and near Dallas: among them The Giant Gila Monster, The Killer Shrews (both 1959), and—the best of them, which isn’t saying much—1968’s Mars Needs Women. For some years, I worked at The Science Place (Dallas’ science museum), and scenes of that movie were filmed there. In the film, due to chaotic chromosomes, the male-to-female ratio on the red planet has hit 100-to-1. So, Mars does need women. This museum which is closed now but the stunning Fair Park where it was located is alive and well. It has one of the nation’s largest collection of Art Deco exhibition buildings. It hosted some of this year’s World Cup games and is home to museums and The Texas State Fair.

About 30 miles south of Dallas is The Munster Mansion, a full-size, startlingly accurate reconstruction of the home of the Munsters in the 1960s television series. We visited a few years ago and donated some Munster memorabilia which my husband has acquired. Sandra McKee, one of the owners, gave us a personal tour through the house. The interior is as impressive and accurate as the exterior. Among the celebrities who have visited is Butch Patrick, the original Eddie Munster. We met him at the Monster Bash. The Munster Mansion is certainly unique experience.

Just north of our home in Houston is the National Museum of Funeral History. It is an amazing place, with many displays, dealing with embalming, cremation, Day of the Dead, the Shroud of Turin, and funerals for royals, popes and presidents. Most impressive are the many—most in mint condition—historic hearses and caskets. The museum takes its subject seriously, but does have a sense of humor: a wall is dedicated to horror film icons Bela Lugosi, Boris Karloff, Vincent Price and others (including Herman Munster portrayer, Fred Gwynne).

We enjoy our trips to the Monster Conventions each year and every time we go try and take a different path to see more unusual sites and of course to see new monsters!

For many Americans, Mexico City is closer than Europe and just as unique and historical. Mexico City, or Ciudad de México (CDMX), is the largest city in North America and, with a population of over 20 million people, the fifth largest city in the world. This vibrant metropolis is set in a valley in the high Mexican central plateau, about 2,240 meters (7,350 feet) above sea level. It is a city of contrasts that mingles mysterious Aztec history, Spanish Colonial design, and a cutting-edge contemporary culture. It is a must-see destination for travelers with its stylish hotels, large public parks, sophisticated restaurants and shopping spaces. The capital city of Mexico offers a fusion of history, culture and cuisine that draws millions of visitors each year. From the country’s architectural treasures to delectable street food to world-class museums housing pre-Columbian treasures to more contemporary art, this city will leave you breathless and coming back for more.

There is so much to see here. The neighborhoods and key sights are spread way out between streets teeming with traffic and pedestrians. We found the best way to get around the city and make the most of our time was by private driver or by Uber. Be prepared to sit in traffic and plan accordingly. Our favorite neighborhoods are Coyoacan, Roma, Condesa, and Centro Historico, also called the Zocalo, Mexico City’s downtown historic area. We have stayed twice on the square in Centro Historico and once in Coyoacan. The beautiful Zocalo overlooking the Cathedral was crammed with locals and tourists. Coyoacan was a personal favorite as it full of trees and much quieter. The main plaza is lined with great cafes and a view of the Parroquia San Juan Bautista, a stunning 16^th century Baroque church and convent. Give yourself some time to immerse yourself in this city’s pace of life.

Some of our favorite highlights are:

The Museo Nacional de Antropología, one of the best museums of history and culture in the world opened in 1964 on the outskirts of Chapultepec Park. It specializes in ancient to pre-Columbian artworks. Arrive before opening time to avoid the surge of crowds later in the day. Across the street is the large, beautiful park, a refuge of trees and nature on the outskirts of the Condesa neighborhood. One of the highlights of this park is Chapultepec Castle, well-worth touring with its elegant staterooms and panoramic view from the terrace of the Paseo de la Reforma. There are bikes you can rent to ride along the trails in this park, but it is also very walkable. Rowboats and pedalos are available to rent on Chapultepec Lake. A day at the museum and the park with dinner in the Condesa neighborhood is a pleasant way to spend an entire day.

The Zocalo

Built over the ceremonial core of the Aztec Tenochititlan (“city state”), this plaza is bustling with cultural events ceremonies and some political protests.Set aside a few hours to visit the sites of the Catedral Metropolitana and Templo Mayor, which lies behind the cathedral. Archaeologists believe the Templo Mayor is the site of the chief temple of the Aztecs. It is a ruin today, but still worth a look. The on-site museum is a great place to experience the historical past. We enjoyed watching the “Aztec dancers’ and stayed twice in two different accommodations (see a room with a view for details).

Casa Azul or the Blue House

The Frida Kahlo Museum is perhaps the most popular one in Mexico City. Kahlo was born and raised in this vivid-blue building, and lived with her husband, painter Diego Rivera, until her death in 1954. Booking online in advance is very important, as only small groups of people are allowed in at a time and entrance for each day is limited. We were extremely lucky to book the first group in the morning. As everyone in our group headed into the house, the exterior was clear to take the best photos. As people came out of the house, the interior was then empty for a relaxed stroll through. The museum is located in Coyoacan and can be combined with a trip to visit the neighborhood of Coyoacan and Xochimilco.

Xochimilco

This complex of canals and chinampas (artificial islands) is a go-to place for parties and celebrations. Brightly colored trajineras (flat-bottomed boats) glide down along what was originally built as both a passage network and an agricultural system. Trips vary in length from an hour to six hours as the boatsman transports you along. Smaller crafts will come alongside your boat to sell drinks, food and souvenirs. Floating Mariachi bands will serenade you for a fee. We booked a tour through Viator in which the boat and driver were included as well as a modest lunch. It was a beautiful way to spend a morning. There are botanical stands with plants and flowers surrounding the whole area. We booked during the week. If you want a more livelier scene book for the weekend. This district became a World Heritage Site in 1987.

Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo

In addition to housing the works of two great artists, the museum offers a unique look into 1930s Mexican Modernist architecture. It is surrounded by a cactus fence, and its rooftop boasts great views of the San Angel neighborhood.

Anahuacalli Museum

Inspired by Teotihuacan, Diego Rivera designed it as a setting of his pre-hispanic works. It is a fascinating building and setting. The area was once a ranch where Frida Kahlo and he raised vegetables and planned a future museum.

Palacio de Bellas Artes

One of the main attractions in Mexico City is the dazzling Palacio de Bellas Artes, a building that fuses Art Nouveau and Art Deco to create one of the city’s most familiar landmarks. The palace hosts a stunning lobby that can be entered without charge, as well as a couple of spaces that conduct classical music, opera, and ballet performances. There is a collection  of murals in the museum portion of the building. The highlight is Diego Riviera’s El Hombre Controlador del Universo (Man, Controller of the Universe), an extensive, political work that was transplanted here after being removed from the USA for its communist themes.

Palacio de Correos de Mexico (Postal Palace)

The city’s central post office was built in 1907 and is still in operation. Located near the Palacio de Bellas Artes, the gilded and marble palace is a fusion of Neo Venetian Gothic and Art Nouveau design. For the philatelist, the post office houses a small postal museum. Well worth a look too if you enjoy architecture.

Finca Don Porfirio

This restaurant, located on the 8^th floor of the Sears building, is a great place for coffee, pastries or dessert. What makes it so special is the view of the Bellas Artes Palace. It is definitely all about the view.

Teotihuacan Pyramids

About 30 miles northeast of Mexico City lies one of the most important archaeological sites in the Americas. The structures include the Pyramid of the Sun and the Pyramid of the Moon, which are known for their imposing architecture and historical importance to the Mesoamerican civilization. Exactly who built the structures is in doubt. They predate the Aztecs and were in ruins when the Aztecs arrived. The site features colorful murals and the residential housing of the day. The Avenue of the Dead is lined with more pyramids and platforms.

Cablebús

We visited the pyramids on a private Viator tour. On the way, at our request, our guide stopped for us to ride on the aerial gondolas that transverse parts of the city from on high. We had incredible view of rooftops with murals from above. Our guide had never been on cable car and enjoyed it as much as we did—one of the many highlights of the day!

Basilica of Santa María de Guadalupe

The Virgin Mary is thought by many to have appeared on this site in 1531, and left her image imprinted—on the cloak of a peasant, Juan Diego Cuauhtlatoatzin. The cloak is now the centerpiece of the huge basilica, the world’s most visited shrine dedicated to Mary. Pilgrimages occur all year and draw the faithful from around the world. They reach their peak on December 12 for the Feast of Guadalupe. We have visited here twice, and each time we saw hundreds of pilgrims on the road to the basilica. They often arrive on motorbikes or trucks carrying Mary of Guadalupe’s image and camp on the basilica grounds in tents painted with her likeness. The energy and devotion of the pilgrims here is amazing! You pass by the image on a moving walkway and are able to get a good view of it. There is a large and interesting souvenir shopping complex beneath the church.

Mexico City is full of life, history and contradictions. It is a blend of historic and modern attractions. We have stayed there four times in the last two years because there is something about this animated, chaotic city that casts a spell which continues to call you back to see even more.

Guanajuato

Guanajuato has been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1988. Homes in every conceivable color drape the hillsides above the center of the city. Bright, brilliant colors in a jumble of architectural styles. There is a stark gritty atmosphere here which is very different than San Miguel de Allende. Large sections of the town are not fully restored yet are strikingly beautiful. They are filled with colorful plazas, historic churches with an animated atmosphere of winding streets and narrow back alleys. Here too are many sites related to the Mexican Revolution of 1910.

It is a great city for walking. The narrow, tight streets are annoying and disorienting for cars. One of the city’s distinctive features is a labyrinth of underground tunnels that are utilized as roads. You can easily get lost down there. Better to park down below and walk up into town.

Some of the best sights in town are:

The Basilica of Guanajuato (Basilica Colegiata de Nuestra Señora de Guanajuato) is of an impressive Baroque design with a gemstone inlaid Virgin Mary statue. Legend says that, as protection from repeated invasions by the Moors, this Mary was hidden in a cave in Spain for 800 years. King Phillip II of Spain gifted it to Guanajuato. The Basilica is a significant structure in the main plaza. It was initially constructed in 1671 but has had a number of alterations and additions. The exterior is painted bright yellow with burgundy details and a domed roof.

The Monument to Pipila (Monumento El Pípila), located on the hillside, honors Juan José de los Reyes Martínez, a hero of Mexican independence. From here you can see panoramic views of the city)  It is reachable by funicular or by a number of steep flights of stairs.

Alley of the Kiss (Callejón del Beso) has a romantic legend, promising love—well, seven years of love—for those who kiss on its steps. It is a great spot for photos.

The Mummy Museum (Museo de las Momias) is my favorite site in Guanajuato. Human remains mummify naturally in the high desert. No embalming necessary. This underground museum offers a fascinating view of over a hundred mummies or mummified bodies from the 19^th and 20^th centuries. Plenty of local history here. Get here early to avoid the crowds. It is the city’s top attraction.

Diego Rivera Museum: The birthplace of the legendary muralist, full of antique furniture and his early art works. It is a compact museum on three floors located in the historic city center. The ground floor has been furnished to reflect the home as it was during the artist’s childhood. The upper floors display some early paintings, sketches and a small collection of his work.

The Regional Museum of Guanajuato (Museo Regional de Guanajuato Alhóndiga de Granaditas) covers the city’s early history and culture.The building it is housed in is a Neoclassic in style and was originally a public granary.

The Iconographic Museum of Don Quixote (Museo Iconográfico del Quijote) features art inspired by Miguel de Cervantes’ classic novel. The museum contains over a thousand pieces of art. Do not miss the Cervantes Event in October

Calle de Sopeña is a street lined with art galleries, shops, and cafes. It is one of many streets, plazas, and back alleys that attract the adventuresome explorer.

Jardín de la Unión is a central plaza located in the historic heart of Guanajuato with beautiful gardens, cafes with lively music, and street performances.

Calle del Truco is a colorful street with local history and eye-catching architecture. The street is often filled with young people headed to the college on the street.

Underground Tunnels: Explore Guanajuato’s underground streets, originally built to divert flooding from “Rio Guanajuato”, now a pedestrian experience with cars and traffic. It may not be the best place to walk because of all the traffic fumes! It serves as the best way to divert traffic from the city center.

Funicular Panorámico is a train ride to the top of the hills for spectacular views and access to El Pípila monument. Located behind the Teatro Juarez this cable car transfers you to the most breathtaking views of the city. It looks incredible at sunset when the lights come up for the evening. You can take the funicular back or walk down through charming alleyways full of residences and cafes.

The Christ the King Monument (Cristo Rey Statue) is a 22-meter (72 feet) bronze statue, set 2,570 meters (8430 feet) above sea level, offering an unforgettable panorama view of Guanajuato.

Attend, if you can, the Day of the Dead (Dia De Los Muertos) celebration here at the end of October and the first part of November. The events feature colorful altars to the dead, parades and a festival-like atmosphere. You will not soon forget this magical celebration.

San Miguel de Allende

San Miguel, founded in the 16^th century, is a beautiful mix of Baroque, Neoclassical, and Neogothic architecture. It is one of Mexico’s most vibrant cultural cities. The city center is a UNESCO World Heritage site. The city is a flourishing center for artists and art galleries and cultural events. Expatriates from all over the world have wisely chosen to live here.

San Miguel is a great city for walking, and walking is really the only way to see the central plaza (The Zocalo). The plaza’s Jardín Allende is a must-see attraction. Here, you can sense the animated energy of the city, see cultural street shows, listen to local music, and observe community celebrations like parades, religious processions or fireworks. There are loads of cozy cafes and great shopping in this plaza. Smaller churches and chapels located on back streets leading to The Zocalo. They are full of emotive art, sculptures and altars.

Some of the best sites are:

The Parish of San Miguel Arcángel (Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel) is a stunning pink church with a neo-Gothic style that looms over the historic center.  Elegant altars, dramatic paintings and statues line the lavish interior. The building dates back to the 17^th century with a façade added in the late 19^th century. The façade was inspired by cathedrals in Europe. It is the perfect venue for a romantic wedding. We witnessed one on our visit.

Don’t miss the Crafts Market (Mercado de Artesanías), a lively and vibrant setting where you can find everything from art pieces, hand painted ceramics, embroidered clothing, handbags and jewelry. Do not forget to bargain for the best price!

The House of the De La Canal Estate (Casa del Mayorazgo de la Canal) is an impressive 18^th century neoclassical building with baroque features, located close to Jardin de Allende. It is a cultural center of the Banamex bank that offers free exhibitions to the public of decorative items and art.

The Ignacio Ramirez Cultural Center (Centro Cultural Ignacio Ramírez El Nigromante, known locally simply as “El Nigromante”) is part of the National Institute of Fine Arts (INBA). The building was built in 1755 as a convent for the “Las Monjas” or nuns of the Conception. It was also a primary school during the 19^th century. Later, it was repurposed and became a school of fine arts. It has attracted many famous artists over the years, among them David Alfaro Siqueiros, Eleanor Cohen, and Pedro Martínez, as well as an international following. There are murals on the wall “The Fanaticism of the People” by Martinez, “The Washers” by Cohen and “The Life and Work of General Ignacio de Allende” by Siqueiros.

The La Aurora Cultural Center of Art and Design (Fabrica La Aurora) is a former textile factory repurposed into a lively art and design center. It stages art, design, and crafts exhibitions of various artists who live in San Miguel. The center also hosts events and concerts throughout the year. Many of the artists and craftsmen have studios there. There is a wide variety of shopping, antique shops, furniture stores and boutiques selling clothing, handbags and home décor. There are several restaurants too on site.

Hot Air Ballooning: Globo San Miguel is a top choice for ballooning over San Miguel. Floating above the colorful city at dawn as the sun rises over the horizon is dazzling – hues of orange, pink and mauve infuse the sky as you float gracefully above the historic city and countryside fields. It is truly an unforgettable experience.

The Botanical Garden and Nature Reserve (El Charco del Ingenio) features walking trails through a canyon with spring fed pool. Great bird watching opportunities with many examples of Mexican cactus and succulents.

If you want a daytrip out of either San Miguel Allende or Guanajuato, the city of Dolores Hildago is a charming and historical. It played an important role in Mexican independence and you can experience true Mexican culture there.

Guanajuato and San Miguel de Allende are Spanish colonial jewels of Mexico’s central highlands. They are renowned for their 16^th through 18^th century architecture. The two are amongst the most beautiful of the 36 UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Mexico.

Woodland’s central structure, a red roofed mansion, built in 1834, sits amidst a rural setting of the Mississippi River levee. It is a raised Creole design with Greek Revival features. The image of the house has graced the label of Southern Comfort whiskey- based liqueur for more than seventy-five years.

Woodland Plantation has had a long varied history and has experienced its share of hurricanes. Ravages of time and weather reduced the plantation to near ruins. The Creppel family bought the property in 1997 and completely renovated it. Woodland opened as a bed and breakfast in 1999.

Foster Creppel, the current owner describes his property as a rustic “country inn”. The main house contains nine bedrooms of which you can stay that have been thoughtfully restored and beautifully furnished with antiques from the period. Other 19th Century buildings have been brought to property. One of the most significant is Spirits Hall, a deconsecrated Catholic church from 1883, now the plantation’s dining area “Spirits Hall”, once known as St. Patrick’s Catholic Church, was transplanted to Woodland Plantation in October 1998. It was moved from Homeplace, Louisiana, 14 miles south of Woodland and restored and repurposed into a beautiful dining and reception space. Weddings and special events are perfect for this property.

Over time the mix of buildings has expanded with the addition of a number of historic structures, other buildings—an overseer’s house and an old cabin—are original to the plantation – additional buildings, each with their own unique charm, are the Magnolia Store, the Little House, all of which can serve as a romantic accommodations.

There are many other choices of lodging here. There are nine guest rooms in the main house with private baths. We stayed in the stilt duplex cabin at the front of the property which was loaded with signed art by David Bates a well-known American artist. It was spacious and very private. We loved the experience there. A full complimentary breakfast, including eggs and sausage cooked to order, is included. On New Years Eve, we enjoyed a five-course gourmet dinner which could compete with any meal you can find in New Orleans. Quite a festive event which we thoroughly enjoyed. You can sign up for a meal plan and have a delicious dinner here every night if you wish.

One of the most popular things to do here is fishing. Knowledgeable guides can take you spin fishing, fly fishing, or deep-sea fishing. Numerous fishing boats set out from here while we stayed over holiday week. You will love the drive towards the far tip of Louisiana, which points like a finger out into the Gulf. It is a unique mix of refineries, small fishing villages and beautiful wetlands full of water birds.

You will be dazzled by this beautiful environment with a unique array of flora and wildlife. This special wetland is gradually disappearing so careful preservation is needed. For information about staying here contact woodlandplantation.com.

The Sacred Valley lies between the towns of Pisac and Ollantaytambo, northwest of Cusco. The Urubamba River meanders through the valley. Elevations vary from 9,000 ft (2,750 m) on the valley floor to more than 16,000 ft (4,900 m) at the top of the Andes peaks. Sacred Valley’s altitude is lower than that of Cusco’s, making it a great place to adapt to the altitude. Some of the more interesting villages are Ollantaytambo, Urubamba, Pisac, and Chinchero. Each with unique personalities; many with Incan ruins. Chincero is the central village for textiles in the area.

The history of the Sacred Valley fuses closely with the Incan capital city of Cusco and Machu Picchu. The Incan Empire began its rise in the 13^th century, reached its peak in the 15^th century, and fell to Spanish conquistadors in the 16^th. The Incans stretched across Peru and into Bolivia, Ecuador, Chile, Argentina and Colombia. Cusco was the seat of power, where the king resided. The neighboring fields of the Sacred Valley fed the civilization, producing large assortments of grains, fruits and vegetables. During this period Incan stonemasons constructed spiritual temples and settlements in the valley. Today, you can visit archaeological sites in Pisac, Ollantaytambo and Chinchero. Very early in the 20^th century Yale historian and professor Hiram Bingham reached the ruins of Machu Picchu. National Geographic recorded Bingham’s expedition and focused the world’s attention on this lost city covered by jungle. In 1999 PeruRail began offering tourists train service to Machu Picchu. Today, tourism in the Sacred Valley is stretching what the infrastructure can handle. UNESCO, local movements and projects are at work to help preserve the ancient Quechua traditions.

Here some of the most unique villages in the Sacred Valley followed by Machu Picchu and Cusco:

Chinchero

Photo by John Shay

Chinchero is typically rather relaxed, but Sundays—market days—are quite lively, with dealers offering local crafts and farm products. We stopped at a dealer of shawls and textile products, and were treated to a demonstration of applying natural dyes to Alpacan wool. Alpacas were available for petting. So was a pen of cute guinea pigs, destined, alas, for someone’s dinner table—a delicacy in Peru.  Also, you cannot miss the traditional dress of ladies in braids and in hats walking through the streets here. Andean weaving is featured throughout the Sacred Valley—nowhere more so than in Chinchero.

Between Ollantaytabo and Chinchero are Moray and Maras. Moray is known for its unique concentric agriculture terraces which were designed to create different microclimates.It was developed to experiment with crops to see how they would perform in different altitudes and temperatures. It was very much an ancient botanic workshop. Maras is a salt mine known for its pre-Incan salt pans which are terraced. They create a striking view against the hillside. The town of Maras is very charming too with a town square and beautiful church. Both sites are within a quick driving distance of one another.

Pisac

Pisac is primarily known for its ruins and its market. The road from Cusco to Pisac is full of green fields with pigs, sheep and cows grazing in the fields. The road meanders through the mountains and plunges downward into the Sacred Valley. Popular days in Pisac are Sundays and Thursdays. In the town’s main plaza, residents of the area sell Andean crafts and farm grown fruits and vegetables. Handmade textiles with natural dyes abound here. Local tourist-oriented vendors display colorful scarves, shawls and hats made of alpaca wool, a specialty in Peru. The Incan archaeological site resting high above town is well worth the visit.  The ruins built around 1450 feature agricultural terraces and a temple complex.

Ollantaytambo

A historic, bustling town whose archeological site is built upon the rise of a narrow mountainside. Steep stone steps ascend to the well-preserved Incan fortress, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The panoramic views at the top are well worth the steep climb. The town is full of great shopping and restaurants. The train station in Ollantaytambo is where travelers catch the train to Machu Picchu. With no direct road to the famous citadel in the Andes, Ollantaytambo is the launching point. En route to the old historic part of town you will pass the Skylodge a hotel which is a series of pods clinging to a cliff face. These transparent luxury capsules have the most remarkable views of the Sacred Valley as well astonishing starry night skies. You can hike up to the pod and take a zipline down to the valley floor. Not the best place to stay if you are nervous about high places!

Urubamba

Urubamba does not have ruins but does have a river flowing through beautiful hillsides, and boutique and luxurious resort hotels located along or near the famous Urubamba River. The Urubamba valley is the perfect place to enjoy the beauty of the Sacred Valley at a slower pace and get acclimated to the altitude. Here you can enjoy small, private hotels on garden properties with spa amenities, and landscapes from your hotel room window. It is also a 20-minute drive from Ollaytaytambo, where you catch the train to Machu Picchu. We stayed in the Andean Wings Valley Hotel, in their casita. Loved the extra space the gardens. They also had several free cultural events while we stayed here. The restaurant and their kind staff were very helpful. It was one of our favorite places to stay during our whole South American trip.

Cusco

Photo by John Shay

With its airport, Cusco is a main hub for entering the Sacred Valley. Its unique and historic architecture has earned it a listing as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Visitors these days travel to Cusco and use the town as a base for exploring Machu Picchu. The Incan treasures which were once in Cusco would have been even more impressive than those of Machu Picchu. The stunning mix of colonial architecture, intermingled with fantastic Incan ruins, make this a highlight in Peru. Cusco is believed to be the longest, continuously inhabited city in the Western hemisphere. Founded in 1100 AD, Cusco is built in the heart of one of the world’s most spectacular mountainous regions

Be aware about driving in Cusco It is like  a demolition derby when driving out from the airport—we couldn’t wait to get out of town. It was much better driving in the countryside.

Machu Picchu

This 15^th century marvel, long lost and forgotten by man, is now one of the most visited destinations in the Americas. Dramatically perched on top of a mountain in the middle of a tropical forest, this sanctuary impresses not only for its architectural significance but for its spectacular, inaccessible location. It was declared a heritage site in 1983 by UNESCO and is undoubtably the most remarkable surviving structure of the Incan Empire. This citadel is made up of temples, palaces, terraces, monuments, and complexes. Stone channels built to drain off water, and still intact, have helped to preserve the site over the centuries. The precision with which the large blocks of stone, are placed without any space between them, rivals the pyramids of Egypt. After your train trip from Ollaytaytambu to Aguacalientes you will get off the train and take a bus up to the top. Machu Picchu will take your breath away! Not only because of the high altitude hike but it is absolutely dazzling! You will not soon forget the epic beauty of this UNESCO World Heritage site.

The Amazon rainforest covers eight different South America countries. The largest expanse lies in Brazil. We chose to enter the Amazon through Ecuador because of the relative ease of access. But it is not a short drive from the capital city of Quito. Ecuador’s Amazonia crosses six provinces: Napo, Sucumbios, Pastanza,  Morona Santiago, and Zamora Chinchipe. The Napo and Pastanza provinces contain Yasuni Park, one of the most bio-diverse areas on earth. Jaguars, tapirs, monkeys, caimans and parrots as well as other unique flora and fauna can be found in the region.

The Ecuadorian Amazon is also known for the Taromenane and the Tagaeri, isolated indigenous tribes, living deep within its forests. There are very few members of this population left and they live in purposeful isolation, avoiding all contact with the outside world. These tribes dwell within the margins of the Yasuní National Park, where their right to privacy is protected by Ecuador’s constitution.

The Yasuni Bioshere Reserve has some diverse plants, fish (including piranhas, which are not quite as terrifiying as in popular lore), mammals (monkeys and jaguars) reptiles (anacondas and iguanas) and many types of insects. Many more than you can ever imagine! One of those insects is the bullet ant, which has a very painful bite, whose effects last 24 hours.  The bullet ant is large, but not the largest in the Amazon. You have to go downstream into Brazil to see the really big ones (dinoponera gigantea). The Yasuni National park is a long boat ride from the lodge where we stayed but we will definitely visit it the next time we are here. It is well worth the journey.

The Amazon is also a birdwatcher’s wonderland! Ecuador’s birding is world renowned, with an estimated 1600 species: more than twice the amount found in all of North America. Among the more colorful and exotic ones are macaws, toucans and tanagers.

Near our lodge are many marvels to see in the rainforest itself: the spectacular waterfalls, AmaZOOnico (jungle wildlife rescue center opened in 1993 on the banks of the Napo river), along with many nature reserves and parks. On our walk on the grounds  in AmaZOOnico we saw  a scorpion, large spiders and wild monkeys in the trees. The other animals we saw there were being rehabilitated. It is a fantastic and yet peaceful walk through the zoo in the jungle.

Also close to where we stayed is The Cacao Farm, a wonderful place to experience local preparations of chocolate. The beans are harvested from the pod; the seeds are dried in the pan and ground into a chocolate paste. The chocolate and fresh fruit fondue they served us there tastes delectable. There is also a scenic butterfly farm  with some of the most exotic and beautiful butterflies I have ever seen! You can see them from a sheltered chrysalis form through mature butterfly.

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One of my favorite experiences here was exploring a medicinal shaman’s garden. The shaman, Luis, showed us many medicinal and healthful plants, did a cleansing ceremony for me which made my ears pop. The ceremony cleared from me the unease which I had experienced from altitude changes (Quito is above 9,000 feet) and the treatment gave me an overall feeling of well-being. Luis also introduced me to Guayusa tea, which has natural caffeine and antioxidants. I continue to drink it here back at home. I bought some dragon’s blood, a tree resin which is used to heal wounds and used in spiritual rituals. The grounds also contained a number of indigenous animal traps which were used in the past. It was a very interesting afternoon!

We also enjoyed a local artisan who carved beautiful figures from nature in Balsa wood. We could not resist an exotic bird sculpture!

We took a number of hikes through the jungle, one was straight up a flowing creek. Our guide Gus showed us how to start a fire with flint and local tree materials. He also showed us how we could survive on ants and termites! We also visited a pond loaded with caiman crocodiles.

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We stayed in a delightful lodge, Casa del Suizo, located on the Napo river, the Amazon river’s largest and most mighty tributary. Casa del Suizo is described as “remote yet accessible.” Our suite was perfect, with the best views and a jacuzzi on the deck with hammock. Exotic birds sang into our windows in the morning and into the night. These photos were taken off our private deck. The food was a buffet which had many choices of international and local food. We had our own professional private guide and driver, Gus Recalde. He picked us up in Quito, guided us everywhere in the Amazon and took some of the most amazing photos for the blog, then delivered us to the airport at the end of our amazing journey. We would also like to thank Miriam in sales and operations who suggested the suite and made all our arrangements while we were at the lodge. Everything was perfect!

Staying at this lodge with its professional staff and management-  where everything was arranged and included for our stay, made our time here the highlight of our trip to South America. Now, as I sit at home sipping my Guayusa tea I can still imagine the beautiful Napo river in front of me surrounded by the lush, tropical rain forest!

Sulawesi is one of largest islands in the Indonesian archipelago. The Torajan people of Southern Sulawesi are known for their elaborate death and funeral rituals. Many Torajan people today identify as Christian or Muslim. Fused into these faiths is animism—a belief that all things—animals, plants, wind, water, and air—possess a conscious life force or spiritual essence. Many hold the belief that their earliest ancestors were heavenly beings who came to Earth using a celestial stairway.

Death, for Torajans, is the most important event in life. When family members die, they are thought of, not as dead, but sick, and cared for out of love and respect for their deceased family members. The care may extend for months, sometimes years, and continues until and after the funeral service. In the time between an individual’s death and their internment, verses from the Bible or Koran are read daily, while the body is preserved — and ultimately mummified — with a mixture of formaldehyde and water.

Families maintain their deceased in separate rooms in their homes until they can save enough for the funeral. The services may last for a week with the sacrifice of many buffaloes and pigs. The higher the family status, the more animals sacrificed. After the service, the dead will be continually visited and cleaned and sometimes redressed in a ritual known as Ma’nene.

Torajans live in small, quiet villages off rustic dirt roads in the Sulawesi highlands. Their distinctive homes are known as Tongkonan. The buildings are erected on stilts of wood and bamboo and have long, narrow sweeping roofs resembling a saddle. Ornately carved window coverings and doors make the homes very beautiful.On posts in front of the homes are water buffalo horns. The more horns on display, the more prominent the family. These unique homes are an important part of Torajan life and culture. Weddings and religious ceremonies are conducted there.

After the funeral the dead are placed in spaces carved into cliffsides. Some in mass ancestral funeral towers Babies are put into hollowed out trees with the belief that as the tree regrows the spirit of the baby will inhabit the tree.

Another key element of Torajan funerals are wooden or bamboo carvings of loved ones called “tau tau.” These figures may be placed on a balcony in front of the tomb. Detailed tau tau are very expensive and may be kept in the home out of fear of it being stolen.

It is not unusual for tourists to be invited to the sacrifice of the animals at the funeral. It is believed to improve the family’s status. Our guide asked us to bring a gift of sugar and a pack of cigarettes as gifts.  We arrived after the slaughter of the buffalo, but saw pigs being carried off and sadly heard their squeals.

It is important to note that all of the meat is shared with family members and those that attend the ritual and the Torajans believe that the spirits of animals sacrificed accompany their loved ones into the afterlife.

The settlements, where time seems to slow down, offer a glimpse into a unique world.  Travel by horsedrawn buggies or by bicycle is common. Farmland is often ploughed with horses. The Amish are known for simple, distinctive clothing.

On our road trip, we stayed in Killbuck, close to Millersburg, a village of about 3,200 people and the Holmes county seat. Millersburg’s historic downtown, listed on the National Register, is full of antique and gift shops with one-of-a-kind treasures. Amish-made clothing with a contemporary flair is sold everywhere. Other shops boast metal works, glassware, handmade baskets, spoons, rugs and jewelry. These hand-crafted gifts are beautiful, functional and most likely have a cultural story to be told.

Among the dining options is a pub with its own brewery. Menus are not restricted to simple Amish fare, and something for all tastes can be found. Accommodations are within walking distance. The courthouse square is sprinkled with various architectural styles which add to the village’s ornate Victorian heritage and historic appeal.

Some specific attractions in Millersburg are:

Rails to Trails (62 N. Grant St.) is a 15-mile walking/biking and buggy trail over rolling hills, close to the local wildlife.

Miller’s Bakery (4280 Township Road 356) offers delicacies baked fresh daily. They specialize in pastries, cookies, cheese tarts, and fruit pies. They also offer local crafts, such as home-crafted candies,

Amish and Mennonite Heritage Center (5798 County Road 77, located just north of Berlin) provides background on the formation of Anabaptist groups and records the migration of Amish and Mennonites into Holmes County. The Center includes a 265-foot mural illustrating the heritage. The center offers guided tours and features a restored bank barn with Conestoga wagon and a one-room schoolhouse. It may be the best resource for any questions regarding the Amish cultures.

Heini’s Cheese Chalet (6005 County Road 77) has been crafting artisan-style cheeses since 1935. The owners partner with local dairy farmers to produce the freshest cheeses. You can watch the cheesemaking process if you arrive in the morning. The shop offers over 50 sampling varieties of cheese, meat, jams and fudge.

Addie’s Fabric Shop (3092 County Road 135) offers a large selection of fabrics, casual handbags plants and baby items. The people that run the shop are helpful and very friendly. Horse and buggies are parked outside.

The Victorian House Museum (484 Wooster Road) is a must-see. Visitors can explore hundreds of years of history within its walls. Tales are that this unique mansion is haunted.

Don’t miss this delightful piece of Ohio. In addition to Millersburg other Amish towns are nearby, Berlin, Sugarcreek and Walnut creek just to name a few- all waiting to be explored.